Craftsmanship & Materials

Gold Frames and White Enamel Decoration

How the necklace's gold settings and enamel borders frame each of the five table-cut diamonds.

Reading time: 4 min Last reviewed: August 2026 Category: Craftsmanship & Materials

The Gold Frames

Each of the five principal diamonds sits within a shaped gold frame. The supplied curatorial summary describes "gold fittings on silk cord," placing the gold construction as both structural — holding each diamond and connecting the piece to its cord — and decorative, with chased, rope-like borders visible around each setting in the photographic record.

White Enamel Decoration

The necklace's gold frames are finished with white enamel decoration. Enamelling — the fusing of powdered glass to a metal surface under heat — was a refined decorative technique in Mughal jewelled arts, often used to introduce controlled colour and pattern around gemstone settings. On this necklace, a pale, white enamel border frames each diamond, creating a crisp visual boundary between the cool luminosity of the stone and the warmth of the surrounding gold.

Why This Detail Matters

The combination of table-cut diamonds with enamelled gold settings is characteristic of fine Mughal jewelled work of the period referenced in the supplied documentation. Its survival, intact, across all five settings on a single necklace is part of what the curatorial material identifies as contributing to the piece's rarity and historical importance.

  • Curatorial Summary — materials descriptionAvailable
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